In this overview diagram, I've drawn in how I imagine the framing will be done around the exterior walls to install the foam insulation, and the wall between the kitchen and dining areas.
Note the 3" sewer pipe in green at the right hand side. I had assumed that the wall between the upstairs bathroom and the middle bedroom was directly above the wall between the kitchen and dining room but it wasn't. I imagine the sewer line will be at the corner of the bathroom to minimize the twists and turns in the 3" pipe but you can see that I've shown the kitchen sink in this view as a reminder that we have to get the drain and vent pipes out.
The critical dimension to fit in the kitchen cabinets is 13'9" inside the drywall (larger is OK, 14'3" ideal). In practice, I'm guessing you make the actual dimension at least ½" bigger to allow for things being out of square. I don't know what thickness drywall is standard; I've assumed 5/8" in which case that would put the framing 13'10¼" apart.
The same view but showing the kitchen cabinets and appliances installed. You'll see 13'9" dimension is critical only for the base cabinets as we'll end up with a few inchens either side of the window.
Looking at the west wall that separates us from our neighbor, I've shown 8'6" of cabinets which leaves 5'7" for the half bathroom or about 5' internally assuming we can use the steel framing to give us a wall that is only about 3" thick. I've drawn it with 2" members so with 5/8" drywall it would be 3¼" thick.
Same view but with cabinets in position.
I've made the half bathroom 3'6" wide (3'3" internal) so that it is a few inches wider than the bare minimum so we can have a wash basin that it a little larger than the 9" deep one you mentioned. I'm not sure how you would do the framing where the steel meets the timber and my guess may be inaccurate but I've assumed a 24" door which is what we have at the place we rent now.
Also note the 65" (5'5") rough opening for the 32" pocket door. I've assumed the pocket door frames sold at Home Depot from Johnson Hardware that need an opening 2 times the width of the door plus 1" as you can see on this diagram.
The framing around the 28" pocket door will be a little more complicated. The Ikea tall cabinet on the other side of the door is 24-5/8" deep and so with the 5/8" thickness of the drywall and the studs behind it, the front face will be 28¾" out from the brickwork.
I want the door frame to extend just a little bit further from the wall than the cabinets and I'm assuming the 28" door will be flush with the frame when closed (including the 3/8" thick door stop. So if we put a stud FLAT against the wall (in red), then the edge of the door frame will be 29-7/8" from the bricks.
Note that to attach the drywall either side of the door, some strips of plywood (in yellow) will need to be attached to the ends of the framing on the outside wall (in aqua) which allows the door to slide all the way back. Johnson Hardware show this problem of "intersecting walls" on this diagram.
and with the pocket door installed:
and view from inside the kitchen:
However, that doesn't quite address the need to fit our china cabinet between the doors and it is 56½" wide and I don't want to compromise the house just for our one item of furniture so would you please make this odd modification for us: once the pocket door frame is in place, put another 4x2 on the inside of the door frame (in purple) before you install the drywall and that will give us the extra 1½" we need. Yes, it means that the door opening will be reduced to 26" but when we sell the house, I'll take it out and trim the drywall to give a full 28" opening.
It would have been so much easier if the cabinet were a few inches narrower but this is the best compromise I can come up with.
